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JC
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Posted 5:09 pm, 11/27/2021
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Good news (I think)! I saw today that, even with everything turned off, the pressure was still cycling; implying that something was still running. I went outside and disconnected all of my sprinklers, and the cycling stopped! So I think it could be either a bad sprinkler manifold (best), a bad sprinkler (second best), or a busted hose before it gets to the manifold (blerg).
After disconnecting the sprinklers, I drained the system like you said. At that point the pressure in the tank was more like 15psi, so I adjusted it back to 28psi and cranked it all back up.
Right now everything seems good, so I'm cautiously optimistic 
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Joseph T.
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Posted 2:49 pm, 11/27/2021
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michaelhjsr (view profile) | Posted 1:36 pm, 11/27/2021 | Check the bladder tank blue tank psi on bladder tank should be 28lb. Happy Sabbath Day
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What do you think we have been talking about
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michaelhjsr
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Posted 1:36 pm, 11/27/2021
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Check the bladder tank blue tank psi on bladder tank should be 28lb. Happy Sabbath Day
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Joseph T.
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Posted 12:08 pm, 11/27/2021
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JC (view profile) | Posted 1:38 am, 11/27/2021 | The pressure tank is about 1,000 years old... or maybe 25-ish. The house was built in 93 and I bought it in 2003, so all that I know is that it was here when I bought it. Now that you mention it, when I replaced the pump the pressure in the tank was near 0! So I pumped it up to 28psi with an air compressor (2psi below the cut-on). I just now checked on it, and inexplicably the pressure was at 45psi! So I released pressure until it was at 28 again. No water came out or anything, but I really can't explain how it gained pressure 
I'm thinking that I might go ahead and replace the pressure tank and the installation package, though. A new tank is around $250 and a whole new install package would be $100-150, but at least I could do the labor myself. Since I already have a new pump, this would more or less give me a whole new system for $400 more.
You also mentioned a foot valve. I'm pretty sure that the new pump has one built in? That's just from memory on what the plumber said, though. |
I am pretty certain that when you set or check the precharge the water has to be turned off and the water drained. if you didn't do this that may explain what happen with your pressure check if you did it sounds like your tank is bad
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Hepsibah
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Posted 8:54 am, 11/27/2021
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Thank you for the replies about my gas logs. I will give them another try.
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168Amax
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Posted 3:44 am, 11/27/2021
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@Hepsibah On mine you have to continue to hold the ignite button in for 60 seconds after the pilot lites. Before you turn the flame up
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JC
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Posted 2:10 am, 11/27/2021
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@Hepsibah, you'll probably get better replies if you create your own thread. But what color is the flame in the pilot light? It should be blue with a hint of yellow.
What you described makes me think of water in the drip loop or bad gas. If the pilot light is yellow or red then that would be it.
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JC
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Posted 1:38 am, 11/27/2021
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The pressure tank is about 1,000 years old... or maybe 25-ish. The house was built in 93 and I bought it in 2003, so all that I know is that it was here when I bought it.
Now that you mention it, when I replaced the pump the pressure in the tank was near 0! So I pumped it up to 28psi with an air compressor (2psi below the cut-on). I just now checked on it, and inexplicably the pressure was at 45psi! So I released pressure until it was at 28 again. No water came out or anything, but I really can't explain how it gained pressure
I'm thinking that I might go ahead and replace the pressure tank and the installation package, though. A new tank is around $250 and a whole new install package would be $100-150, but at least I could do the labor myself. Since I already have a new pump, this would more or less give me a whole new system for $400 more.
You also mentioned a foot valve. I'm pretty sure that the new pump has one built in? That's just from memory on what the plumber said, though.
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blarpatch
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Posted 6:58 pm, 11/26/2021
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How old is your pressure tank?
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blarpatch
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Posted 6:51 pm, 11/26/2021
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Clean the nipple that connects to the pressure gauge and switch.
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Joseph T.
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Posted 6:12 pm, 11/26/2021
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as another poster has said check to make sure the little pipe the switch is screwed onto is clear and free flowing. Also check that the precharge of your pressure tank is correct for the pressure you are running your pump at. The bladder in pressure tanks do go bad and leak and will cause all kinds of problem. If your tank has no or low precharge or water comes out the charging valve it is bad. You should also have a foot valve on your pump to keep the water from draining back down into the well
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Hepsibah
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Posted 5:47 pm, 11/26/2021
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Please excuse the interruption. I'm looking for advice about gas logs in the fireplace. Mine will ignite, but go out as soon as I turn the knob to make the flame continue. I've tried spraying compressed air for dust...it didn't work.
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bif14
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Posted 5:17 pm, 11/26/2021
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If the pipe I decribe is not open and clean then the pressure switch is not getting the indicated pressure the gauge shows. I had simular type problem and found that little tube full of grit with a harder build up on the pipe walls, but ounce cleared it worked fine.
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JC
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Posted 3:50 pm, 11/26/2021
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I could obviously be wrong here, but if there was a clog (or frozen pipe) then wouldn't that keep the pressure from going back up to 50psi?
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bif14
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Posted 2:06 pm, 11/26/2021
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Check the small pipe the pressure switch is attached to, take it out of the bigger pipe it screws into and look thru it to make sure it is not partically obstructed. If it is then clean it out with a chainsaw file or a proper sixed drill bit, also get any crud out of pressure switch. Good luck.
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JC
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Posted 1:51 pm, 11/26/2021
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Back in August, I had to replace my well pump. The plumber said that it looked like lightning had ran in on it  The new pump is Zoeller brand from Lowes; I forget the size, but it's something like this:
Before replacing the pump I replaced the pressure switch; a cheap fix that I was hoping would fix the problem, but it didn't. The new switch is 30-50, and has a low pressure cut off at 20psi. I had to adjust it a LOT when I installed it; something like 50 turns to get it to cut on at 30psi!
For about a week, though, I'm having a problem with the pressure; if you let it run for awhile then it'll drop down to 20psi, hold for about 30 seconds, then the switch cuts it off and pressure drops to 0. After about 5 seconds you can hear a loud "click", then everything comes back on and the pressure builds back up to 50 again.
I've walked around and don't see any leaks anywhere, but of course the line is buried so I can't swear to it. The whole area above it is mulched, too, so no mower or anything runs over it.
Any suggestions on what the problem could be before I start replacing things willy nilly again?
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